2018 Block of the Month - Row 6

 by thequiltingpatch on 26 Dec 2018 |
1 Comment(s)
Well it's still 2018, but only for a week or so. Definately time to tie this project up.

Our very last border is a foundation pieced border, something we haven't tackled yet in any of the Blog BOMS. 
I hope to do the instructions clearly, but please don't hesitate to contact me if its a little confusing.

I love foundation piecing - it means I can sew any crazy pointy angles without maths. There are many alternatives out there now and I'll leave the intricacies up to you. Some people prefer to use freezer paper and move the sections if needs be. Others will trace or print on to thin paper and then sew directly on to the paper. And then you can always trace the designs on to thin interfacing which will stay in the patches. I am sewing straight on to copy paper as I feel its something that everyone will have handy. 
Regardless of which way you go about it, you'll need the pattern. You can download it from here

Please make sure you don't resize it when you print it out. Measure the 1" square also printed on the page - if it measures 1", you are good to go. If it doesnt, check you printer settings. If you are sewing straight on to the copy paper like I have, you'll need to print out 8 copies. 

There are 3 sets of patterns per page ( oops just realised I left out the number "5" on set 3)
Each set makes 1 block. You need to make 12 blocks per row ( and there are 2 rows) so 24 blocks all up. 
If you have printed out the pattern, by now you are wondering where the bottom section of the pattern has gone. Just like in Row 3 we are going to attach the thin and thick strips as whole plain rows later on, saving both sewing and cutting time. So this tutorial is just for the spiky looking mountain section.

I believe there are two types of  foundation piecers. Those who prep and precut their fabric strips and those I loving call "chunkers". There is nothing wrong with chunking (roughly cutting chunks of fabric to fit the section as you sew.) BUT I'm a prepper. So I'll be giving you the size of strips to cut. 
Using my finished block as a guide,

  • Cut the main fabric ( red)  strips 1 1/2" x WOF, and 2 1/2"  squares (24 in total) cut on the diagonal once.
  • Cut the background ( tangerine) into 2 1/2" strips x WOF

Separate your patterns into two piles. The pattern sets are mirrors of each other. The 4,1 and 5 sections are all main fabric, the 3,2 and 6 and all background fabric. 
As you have so many to sew up, I suggest you make one up completely so you know what you are doing and then chain piece them ( do all the 1 sections on every piece, then all the 2's and so on)

Here goes! 

Take a main fabric strip and place it WRONG sides down on to the WRONG side of the pattern, so that it completely covers the "1" area. It helps to hold the pattern and fabric up to the light to see through the pattern to where the fabric is sitting. 
Sew ALL AROUND the "1" section, sewing close to but NOT on the lines. In my classes we call this perimeter an electric fence. Ok to get next to it, but not ok to touch. 
The "1" section is the only section that is treated this way. 

This is what the first section will look like on the underside.
Note the fabric is RIGHT SIDE UP.

Now its time to trim around the "1" piece. This actually helps with the placement of the "2" piece, so its important. 
To trim, place the fabric side on to a cutting mat and fold the paper pattern along the sewing line. Trim the fabric, adding a 1/4" seam allowance. Flatten out the paper again and fold along the next seam line and trim, working your way around the "1" piece.

Now its time to move on to the "2" piece, a background fabric.
Like the "1" piece, the "2" fabric needs to cover the "2" area completely. This time instead of sewing all around the perimeter, you are just going to sew on the line that separates area 1 from area 2.
As you have trimmed your piece, its easy now to work out where to place your 2 1/2" strip RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER with the "1". You can place a pin across the seam if that helps to hold it in place while you flip the paper over and sew on the line. Remember you are sewing this seam from the paper side.

Press the "2" piece away from the "1" piece
Repeat the trimming process as with the "1" piece. Continue on with the "3"  to "6" pieces using this trimming and sewing on the lines as you go. Don't forget to press in between additions.

Once all the 6 pieces are on, flip the unit to the paper side amd trim it back to the dotted line

When you have two sets made, they come together to make the finished unit. 

There are twelve on these units in each of the two last rows of the quilt. The main fabric "spikes" of the border should attach to the previous row. ie facing in.

Final Quilt Construction
To help break up the patterns in the rows, this quilt has some plain rows. They can be joined if your fabric print allows an easy join. Otherwise cut the strips along the length of fabric.
Here are the cutting sizes for those plain rows..
Every row in between the pieced rows are 2 1/2" wide.
The last 2 rows that join on to the Mountains border ( Row 6) are a thin border of high contrasting colour which is cut at 1 1/8" wide. 
The final border that sits next to this thin border is cut at 1 7/8" wide and could be the same fabric that you made the Spiky parts of Row 6 with. ( the main fabric )

To border or not to border?

This one is a personal choice, there is no right or wrong. My suggestion is to lay the quilt top out and trial borders on it by laying the fabrics alongside the edge. TAKE PICTURES! Goodness this is what smartphones are made for arent they? 
Sometimes borders are needed for size and that's ok, but just remember to keep the size of the borders proportinate to the quilt blocks. What I mean by that is rather than adding one border that is 8  inches wide, which is just WAY too big, consider adding 2 or 3 borders which will make up the 8 inches all around that you need. 
Border 1 -  2 1/2"
Border 2 -  1 1/2"
Border 3 -  5 1/2"
This will still give you the 8" you want on each side, without looking like a big chunk of fabric that takes your eye away from the main quilt design. 

Well I hope you have enjoyed making our 2018 BOM. As always I'm interested to see what your quilt turns out like, so send me a pic via email on info@e-patch.com.au or post it to our facebook page. 
Happy sewing
Danni xx


Patricia - Comment
Patricia05 Jan 2019Reply
Great instructions Dani, even I have been able to understand them! thank you. Is this coming Thursday our sewing pm? I now have something to bring along.
thequiltingpatch - Comment
thequiltingpatch05 Jan 2019Reply
It is our first class back on Thursday - Im hoping to bring my finished quilt top to show you xx

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